Back in the 2000s, when people were posting under internet “handles” on Makeupalley, Basenotes, and Perfume of Life, we’d occasionally end a positive comment about a perfume with the abbreviation “n/a” — “not affiliated” — just to be clear that we were appreciative customers without any personal connections or vested interest in the product or company we were recommending. When some of us started blogging, we’d clearly specify when and if we’d spent any time with a perfumer or brand founder, had been in touch with them via email for a while, etc. in case our readers wanted then to take our praise with a grain of salt.

I attended quite a few product launches and other scent-related events between 2005 and 2012 or so, and most events didn’t lead to any prolonged contact with the people behind the brands. A few of them did, however, when I stayed in touch with individuals whose work I truly liked. I’ve watched some talented perfumers and creative directors nurture their existing businesses, start their own brands, expand into teaching, cultivate delightful social media presences, and so on, and we became friends along the way. Do they occasionally send me sample vials for free? Some do. Do they pay me to write or talk about them? No, and I wouldn’t want them to. Are we connected in ways beyond perfumery—shared interests, tastes, personal histories? Yes.

At a time when so much online content about perfume feels more generic and scripted and monetized than ever before, and sometimes we’re not even sure whether we’re looking at/hearing from an actual human, I value my scent-connections even more. And, rather than avoid any potential conflict of interest by NOT mentioning their work, I want to showcase these fragrant friends. As a (non-perfume) friend said to me a couple of months ago: when the world seems to be falling apart, we should tell people how we really feel about them. (They meant the people we care about, and the good feelings, that is.)

So, my latest review is a round-up of three fragrances by independent female perfumers whom I’ve known for a long time, and that’s not accidental.

I first heard about Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s work on the Makeupalley.com fragrance board, probably around 2005-2006. I swapped for some DSH samples, and then purchased more on my own, and never stopped. Dawn is truly one of my favorite perfumers, and two of her fragrances belong to my small group of “signature scents” that just always feel like “me.” At the same time, I believe she offers something for everyone, and her extensive catalogue is easily accessible due to its many options in size and pricing. Dawn’s 25th annual (!) holiday fragrance, Snow Angels, shows that she has managed to retain her sense of wonder and joy over this quarter-century. (Lucky us.)

In the 2010s, my dear friend Angie (whom I initially met through the MUA fragrance board) hosted a series of NYC meet-ups for a small circle of professional women in the arts and culture sector. One evening, the special guest was a perfumer and brand-founder named Kelly Jones. Kelly told us about her background in the fragrance industry and her longtime (and very informed) passion for wine, and the way she had combined both expertises in her new independent perfume line, Kelly + Jones. She and I stayed in touch and it’s been a treat to see her business grow. This year she relaunched one of her original scents under a new name, Chardonnay Disco, and I’m appreciating it all over again.

Dana El Masri’s name first became familiar to me through my constant lurking on the Institute for Art and Olfaction website, since she’s a regular instructor at the IAO’s Los Angeles studio. More recently, I’ve had the pleasure of meeting her in person at NYC’s Olfactory Art Keller gallery (a place I’m really going to miss) and last year we both participated in an online conference on perfume history and olfactory art, organized by the Corning Museum of Glass. I really admire Dana’s integrity, creative intelligence, and Jazmin Saraï perfumes. Fruitful is her new launch and it might be my favorite one yet.

I wish you all a festive and fragrance holiday season, however you are celebrating it, in the company of someone who is dear to you. (Time shared with that person/those people online also definitely counts!)

You can read my full review of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Snow Angels, Kelly + Jones Chardonnay Disco, and Dana El Masri Fruitful here, on Now Smell This.

Image: Molinard factories in Grasse, France, circa 1930